Review: Ki-sho (葵匠) 9-Course Kappou Dinner Menu

Dining at Ki-sho isn’t merely about eating—it’s an immersion into kappo-style omakase, where every course unfolds like a scene in a poetic performance. New Chef Taro Takayama’s new 9-course dinner menu (S$360++) is a study in transformation and transience, channeling the Japanese philosophy of mujo—impermanence. I return to Ki-sho after 8 months to check out how the venue has evolved. This time, I discover how each dish flows naturally into the next, capturing fleeting moments through seasonal ingredients, delicate textures and restrained yet emotional presentation.

The Prelude: Dashi & Monaka

The meal begins humbly but meaningfully with a dashi of the day, brewed from kombu water and freshly shaved bonito and tuna flakes—a quiet, umami-rich opening that “prepares the stomach.” It’s followed by a whimsical foie gras mousse monaka, shaped like a peanut in a cheeky nod to the tidbits served in old-school Singaporean Chinese restaurants.

Sea-sonal Starters

The Kegani (premium Hokkaido crab with uni, yuba, dashi jelly, and okra) introduces layered sweetness and texture, brightened by a touch of yuzu oil.

The house-made fish cake, crafted from Hamo fish paste and studded with ginkgo nuts and matsutake mushroom, offers an earthy counterpoint—comforting yet elegant.

Sashimi Courses

This sashimi course is a masterclass in technique and understanding of fish. A six-day dry-aged white fish is enlivened with lime and dehydrated kombu; aburi fish is lightly charred, kissed by smoke, and paired with homemade ponzu; while the bluefin tuna, served with cured egg yolk soy sauce, melts into pure umami bliss.

Zen Garden Platter

The Zen Garden Platter follows as a playful interlude—rotating seasonal elements like monkfish liver, chilled corn soup, and Japanese seaweed topped with bafun uni—each presented like jewels in a raked garden of flavors.

Main Event: Kuro Awabi & Tottori Wagyu

The kuro awabi (black abalone), gently simmered in Wakayama water with kinome, comes with a side of rich liver tofu—an exercise in quiet luxury.

Then, the showstopper: Tottori Wagyu, prized for its marbling and depth, served shabu shabu–style with roasted Kyoto eggplant. Exclusive to Ki-sho, this cut delivers a lingering, buttery finish that’s nothing short of sublime.

The Comfort Finale: Donabe & Desserts

For the penultimate course, a donabe of sanma fish and umeboshi is cooked tableside using a premium rice blend from Sumidaya Shoten in Tokyo—fragrant, homely, and deeply satisfying.

Desserts strike a graceful balance between indulgence and restraint: a Japanese peach with Hokkaido milk ice cream, followed by a matcha-hojicha financier made with tea leaves from Inoue Seikien in Tottori.

Verdict

Chef Taro Takayama’s new menu at Ki-sho reaffirms why kappo dining remains one of Japan’s most intimate culinary forms. Every bite feels intentional, yet never overly choreographed. At $360++ per diner, this nine-course journey is not merely about luxury—it’s about witnessing craftsmanship in its most fluid, living form. It is best experienced slowly and savored fully.

Ki-sho
29 Scotts Rd
Singapore 228224

+65 9061 6109

Opening Hours: Monday to Friday, 12PM to 3PM, 6:30PM to 11PM