Just when I thought that Bukhara epitomized all there is to be seen in terms of mosques, madrasas and mausoleums; we venture into another such place – perhaps the most well-known among all the silk road cities – Samarkand.
the majestic registan square of samarkand – one of the most fascinating architectural ensembles I have seen
Unlike the more atmospheric Khiva and the more religious but understated Bukhara, Samarkand differentiates itself in grandeur. Also known as the “jewel of Islamic art,” the city was the capital of Tamerlane’s empire (the man responsible for bringing together the Uzbek identity) in the 14th century. Today, the city has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, credited as a “crossroads of culture” due to its pivotal role in bridging China and the West during the silk road era.
you know you’re in asia when people pose with the peace sign
We traveled to Samarkand from Bukhara by first making a stop in a small town called Shakhrisabz. Though not restored to the level of Bukhara or Khiva, this small town nonetheless also has a UNESCO designation. It is also the birthplace of Tamerlane and a statue of him stands proudly in a square in the city center. Though his rule was marked by savagery, he is still the founder of Uzbekistan and that’s how the present government wanted to remember him when they designated him as the defacto national hero and replaced statues of Lenin with this.
statue of tamerlane in shakhrisabz
From Shakhrisabz, it was a long but scenic drive to Samarkand, passing by green pastures and rolling hills that seemed to have been shaped by the wind.
scenic landscapes on the way to samarkand
Like Bukhara, Samarkand is actually a Tajik-speaking city. It is closer to Tajikistan than it is to Tashkent. But due to Stalin’s policies, the city came into Uzbek control during the separation between Tajikistan and Uzbekistan that occurred under Soviet rule in 1929 and it has remained with Uzbekistan ever since. Political decisions aside, it is actually more convenient this way from a traveler’s perspective as all the 3 well-known silk road cities belong to just one country.
gur-e-amir mausoleum in samarkand
The first place we went to was the Gur-e-Amir Mausoleum. Built in the 1400’s, it is the resting place of Tamerlane and some of his sons. From the outside, it actually looks quite similar to the other historic buildings we’ve seen in the previous two cities. From the inside, it is a different story. The mausoleum appears as a large chamber filled with several detailed beehive patterns in the four corners of the walls. The arches and the internal dome are filled with high-relief gilded papier-mache.
the tilya kori madrasa in samarkand
Afterwards, we visited the Registan. Arguably, the architectural highlight of Samarkand and perhaps of entire Uzbekistan. The square itself is surrounded by three madrasas, all looking grand with well-proportioned minarets, patterns characteristic of Islamic architecture and Arabic inscriptions. Of the three madrasas, a personal highlight for me is Tilya Kori Madrasa which is the building in between the other two. Of note is its gilded fake dome, which is meant to be an optical illusion.
there is actually no dome — it’s a flat ceiling but can you tell?
By this time, I was already quite mosqued-out (and madrasa’ed-out, too!) and that’s coming from someone really fascinated by Islamic architecture! Sure enough, there was another mosque for us to feast our eyes on, the Bibi Khanym Mosque. It suffered substantial damage during an earthquake in the 1890’s and as of now remains only partially restored. Named after Tamerlane’s favorite wife, it used to be the grand mosque of Samarkand.
at the bibi khanym mosque of samarkand
We capped our tour of Samarkand by visiting two places. The first of these later excursions was to Ulugbegh Observatory. It had a sextant which reminded me quite a bit of Jantar Mantar in Jaipur, India. The last place we went to was the Shah-i-Zinda. It was impressively made. Composed of about 20 buildings, each mausoleum is customized. Unfortunately, it was getting dark by this time and we couldn’t visit each one.
top and bottom – the shah-e-zinda ensemble
We also ran past the local bazaar. The products were the normal things one would expect to find in a market. But it provides an interesting glimpse into local life.
a day in the bazaar
Samarkand is a grand city, there’s no doubt about it. Personally, I think I would have appreciated it more if it was the first place we visited. Honestly, by this time, I was already quite tired of seeing mosques, minarets and madrasas. While Samarkand is a bigger city with lots more to do, the sights are also more spread out, making it seem more like a modern, Soviet-looking city overall with some interesting structures here and there rather than having a cohesive old cit. Nevertheless, I found the Registan to be quite impressive. Certainly, it’s up there, along with Esfahan’s Imam Square, as one of the finest Islamic sights that I have visited.
Getting There:
Samarkand is about 5 hours from Tashkent by car. There are daily flights between Samarkand and Tashkent, as well as weekly flights to St. Petersburg and Moscow.
This is Part 4 of a series of posts about my trip around the great silk road cities of Uzbekistan. Click here to read about the Soviet style capital city of Tashkent, the Aladdin-like city of Khiva and the holy city of Bukhara.
I love your great silk road series! I wonder when I’ll ever find the time to go? So many places are priorities for me haha. If ever I do decide to follow your footsteps, I will def include Samarkand. The buildings are lovely!
Thanks for dropping by! Yes, so many places, so little time. If you do get a chance to go to Uzbekistan, the buildings in Samarkand are really something else and I highly recommend it!
I love reading your blogs. I am on my way to Uzbekistan, in a cpl of weeks, and I’m trying to learn as much as possible from this country before I get there. I will be in Tashkent for about 3 weeks. I love each one of these places, which ones (2) out of the 3 would you recommend. Taking in consideration the distance from Tashkent to each one of them and their beauty. Thanks and great job.
Hmm… my personal preference — it would be Khiva, Bukhara and Samarkand (in that order). But in terms of one individual sight, the Registan at Samarkand is still the best looking for me.
one of my nest friends got engaged to a uzbeki girl..so when they have their wedding in uzbekistan..am surely gonna be part of the baaraat!!
http://sushmita-smile.blogspot.in/
I’m not sure if we met at the Bazaar in Samarkand. You look very familiar to me.
Some of my photo in Urgut market >> http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10151537598465704.844862.770495703&type=1
Hi! Yes I remember. We did meet. You’re from Thailand aren’t you?
Yes I’m from Thailand. Nice to see you here. The world is so round.
Yes I’m from Thailand. Nice to see you here. The world is so round.
What a coincidence! I hope you enjoyed your Uzbek trip. Checked out your album — ’twas impressive! Did you take photos aside from Urgut?
Yeh, we did enjoy Uzbek trip very much, so impressed with the Uzbek hospitality. I got another Uzbek foto album in facebook but it’s not public..You can add me in facebook. Also posted trip story in Thai travel webboard but it’s in Thai π
Here’s some photo from the trip π
Bravo! The photos are all wonderful. You must be a professional! π
I only remember Samarkand in our architecture history class and how it became the center of the Silk road that connects China and Europe. Interesting that i get to stumble upon your blog to see some of the nice places one could see there.
I hope I could get there someday. =)
Yes, indeed Samarkand is something else. The sights couldn’t be any more different from what we’re accustomed to seeing at home.
Hi! How do I get to Samarkand/ Uzbekistan from Manila? What airline did you take? And what’s a reasonable budget for Uzbekistan? Could you give me tips for planning a trip there? And, do you happen to have a detailed itinerary that you can share? Thanks! π
Hi Anna! From Manila your best bet is to go via Bangkok or KL. From there, you can catch direct flights to Tashkent, Uzbekistan.
Are there any US women of a “certain age” who are interested in going to Uzbekistan with a tour company who possibly want to join me later this year. I am happily married but my husband is not interested in Uzbekistan. I would love to meet a woman of certain age for company on this trip.
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in my bucket list!
those photos look neat! nice captures man.
thanks for your kind words!
A very informative Read. I’m currently working out an itinerary for 2017 for me and my wife. I’m not sure whether to do it samarkand to bukhara ( on the Afrosiyob train) then Khiva last, or doing it the other way around. You did mention that you were mosqued out by the time you got to Samarkand and preferred if you had started there.Do you think it would still be worth going to Khiva with that itinerary? I’m afraid we’re not too eager to do what sounds like an arduous shared taxi ride between bukhara and Khiva and are mulling an overnight train instead if Khiva will provide a different experience from the two cities. BTW we hold Philippine passports and plan to obtain our LOI online. Will this be sufficient to acquire our visas at the Tashkent airport considering there is no Uzbek consulate in Manila? Thanks
Hi there..!!
I had been there two times and my experience was too good. i’m explain to some our memories of there.
Samarkand is awesome islamic cultural and historical destination there is lot of mosque and many more things to do.
if you thinking to about samarkand and you want to go there then you should be go definitely .
there’s people are awesome and you don’t fill Loneliness with them. if you go there one time then i’m sure you would go again and again times.