South Korea has become somewhat of a rising star in the tourism scene in recent years owing in part to the proliferation of Korean TV shows and pop music. The cities of Seoul and Busan undoubtedly appeal to folks who like seeing pretty and cute things and it’s probably not surprising that the visitor demographics here dis-proportionally lean towards females. If you are thinking of visiting South Korea and would like to have a practical itinerary to cover both Seoul and Busan, allot at least 5 or 6 days. If you are also visiting Jeju, you’ll need to add 2 or 3 more.
The two major cities of Seoul and Busan are the most intuitive places to explore during a trip to South Korea – Seoul for its cosmopolitan vibe and traditional culture and Busan for its seaside chic. This travel guide aims to show you how these cities can be done in as little as a week.
Table of Contents
Day 1 – Seoul City Center
Tip: Google Maps does not work well in South Korea especially in navigating walking directions and public transport route. Instead, download Naver Maps which even shows you the bus timings and fares. This is especially helpful since most of the public buses around South Korea don’t come with English signs.
If this is your first time exploring the tourist attractions in Seoul, start the day with a tour of the palaces. Seoul has 5 palaces but the ones really worth exploring are Changdeokgung, Gyeongbokgung and Deoksugong.
A recommended path to take is one that starts at Gyeongbokgung. If you visit wearing a hanbok (Korea’s traditional costume – you can check out here for hanbok rentals), the admission fee is waived. While here, make sure to go to the far back where the Hyangwonjeong Pavilion, which is built on an artificial island, is located. Many visitors miss it due to the distance but it is well worth a photo stop especially during autumn when the surrounding foliage turn bright red and yellow. Other highlights in the palace complex include the Geunjeongjeon Hall and Gyeonghoeru.
From here, you can make an exit at the side gate and walk around ten minutes to reach Bukchon Hanok Village. Back in the day, almost the entirety of Seoul was made up of these traditional single-storey housing. Nowadays, you can only find them in small pockets with the main area being here. It’s a nice place for a stroll especially if you come here with a rented hanbok with the age-old buildings serving as perfect backdrops for selfies.
One of the highly recommended places for lunch nearby is the Michelin-starred Keunkiwajip (62 Bukchon-ro 5 Gil, Open daily except Monday 11AM to 3:30PM, 5PM to 10PM) for its marinated raw crab. This place is usually very busy and my recommendation is to come here early otherwise it may take you around 30 minutes to get a table.
After lunch, head to Changdeokgung, the largest of Seoul’s five palaces. The highlight here is the sublime secret garden – another popular autumn viewing spot. Admission is free during the last Wednesday of the month or if you are wearing a hanbok. Alternatively, you can also check out Deoksugung which is near Seoul’s city hall. Make sure to drop by Jeongdong Observatory (free, 9AM to 9PM during weekdays, until 6PM during weekends) for a nice bird’s eye view of the city – with both traditional and modern buildings complimenting that view.
Devote the evenings for shopping. Many of Seoul’s shopping districts are open relatively late especially during weekends. Popular night haunts include Myeongdong with its range of street fashion and toiletries, Hongdae with its youth-oriented clothing brands as well as Dongdaemun for wholesale/bazaar-type apparel stores that open until way past midnight.
If you do decide to go to Dongdaemun, a stop right by the Dongdaemun Design Plaza (open daily except Mondays, 10AM to 7PM, til 9PM on Fridays and Saturdays) is a must. Tours of the interiors are offered but the place is just as worth visiting for its imposing steel exterior. It is especially atmospheric at night when the structure is floodlit and the grass fields adjacent to it have these electronic flowers that are also lit up.
Day 2 – Southern Seoul & Gangnam
Tip: If you plan to visit multiple palaces, museums and the N Seoul Tower, you may wish to consider getting the Discover Seoul Pass. In total, there are 36 attractions that you can visit free of charge. You can buy here for a 15% discount.
Start the day at Seoul’s upscale Gangnam – a district filled with high-end boutiques, plastic surgery clinics and well-heeled city folk. It is known in some circles as the Beverly Hills of South Korea. A popular cafe to check out in this area is Cafe Dior (464 Apgujeong-ro, Open from 11AM to 8PM daily). Cafe culture meets fashion in this well-appointed cafe.
From the cafe, Garosugil is just a short ride away. The shopping street is filled with plenty of luxury brands as well as big-name stores such as a dedicated Apple Store and more. The street is especially attractive in autumn when the gingko trees by the pavements turn yellow.
After having your fill at Garosugil, head further east to Galleria, a luxury shopping mall in Gangnam. The highlight here is the basement deli and food court which is filled with plenty of traditional Korean eats. The place is a well-curated affair with many of Korea’s best independent snacks / food places brought together. Even the food court here is recommended for its kimchi soup, bibimbap as well as seafood stews.
After a short lunch at Galleria, head to Starfield Library (free, open daily from 10AM to 10PM) at Starfield Coex Mall. The venue is known for its humongous 2-storey tall bookshelf which has been featured aplenty in social media. There are over 50,000 books and magazines here but I doubt if most people who come here are actually bookworms.
If you have time to head to just one cafe during your time in Seoul, let that place be Cafe Onion (open daily from 8AM to 10PM, from 10AM on Saturdays and Sundays). Housed in a seemingly rundown industrial building, the place has attracted visitors from far and wide for its instagram-worthy aesthetic and delicious pastries. While here, don’t miss the Pandoro, a towering Italian bread filled with powdered sugar.
Late afternoon is a great time to check out Namsan Seoul Tower (daily 10AM to 11PM, til midnight on Saturdays). Located in a forested area in the middle of the city, it’s a great place from where you can appreciate Seoul’s skyline. If you are wondering if it’s worth going up the tower versus just appreciating the view from the parking lot, my take is yes – the higher view is certainly much more photogenic. During spring and autumn, the higher view also allows you to appreciate the colorful foliage around Namsan itself. The admission fee to the tower is 16,000 Won but you can get a 22% discount by booking N Seoul Tower tickets here.
Day 3 – DMZ Tour
One of the most intriguing activities you can do during your trip to Korea is to join a tour of the demilitarized zone (DMZ). Korea is officially the only divided country in the world with both North Korea and South Korea as separate member states of the United Nations. The Korean War was one of the biggest military conflicts of the 1950s and it was concluded through an armistice agreement signed in 1953. However, it never progressed beyond that with no peace treaty signed despite multiple efforts. Technically, hostilities have not ended and there are occasional periods when access to the demilitarized zone is closed whenever there are tensions in relations between the 2 Koreas.
The Korean Demilitarized Zone is the 250 kilometer border between North and South Korea plus a buffer measuring about 4 kilometers wide. During peace time, it is possible to visit the Korean DMZ from both North Korea and South Korea and I have had the pleasure of visiting from both sides. Since this guide is about visiting South Korea, I will instead present my perspective of visiting the DMZ from South Korea. But if you are curious to see what it was like to visit the DMZ from the North Korean side, check out my North Korea DMZ experience here.
There are many DMZ tours being offered but the most exciting kind, in my view, is the tour that includes stepping into the JSA or the Joint Security Area (you can book here). Do note that tours that include this facility are often more expensive than other DMZ tours but it’s all worth it because you’ll get to step into North Korean soil, albeit for a few seconds. Whenever there are heightened tensions between the 2 Koreas, access to this facility becomes restricted so it’s best to check for the situation before booking. Alternatively, you can book those DMZ tours that don’t come with access to the JSA.
A typical tour of the DMZ that includes the JSA takes about a day. Along the way, there are stops such as the Third Tunnel of Aggression and Dora Observatory – a viewpoint from where you can see North Korea through binoculars. There’s also a customary Korean lunch followed by a visit to the JSA itself. One of the reasons why this tour takes longer is because security is tighter and you’ll be subject to inspections when entering the Panmunjom facility. Expect to be back in Seoul by around 5 to 6PM.
Day 4 – Excursions From Seoul / Seoul’s Neighborhoods
If you are thinking of visiting Nami Island, allocate a full day for the excursion. You can choose to do it yourself but for convenience, you may want to take a direct bus which can do Nami Island combined with Petite France. They will also handle the day’s itinerary for you. Whichever option you choose, you’ll find that taking a shuttle bus there is indeed a lot easier than the DIY route.
If a day trip to Nami Island does not appeal, you can also venture to some of Seoul’s other interesting neighborhoods. Here’s a rundown of districts worth checking out:
- Buam-dong – Still relatively unexplored by foreign visitors but Buam-dong is quickly gaining ground for its art and design hubs and independent cafes interspersed with natural areas. Highlights here include Changuimun (the original city gate), the cafes Club Espresso and Lumberjack as well as Whanki and Seoul Museums. Nearest metro: Jahamun-gogae
- Seochon – Personally, my favorite among Seoul’s less known districts, Seochon was where the nobles used to live back in the Joseon Dynasty. You will find a lot of clothing boutiques here as well as the Sejong Village Food Street but the real gem is the Suseong-dong Valley where locals typically go for nature walks. Nearest metro: Gyeongbokgung
- Itaewon – A very foreign-centric district as American soldiers typically come here during their leisure time. Today, it’s home to plenty of international restaurants, cafes and boutiques.
Day 5 – Busan
Take a morning train ride to Busan (you can purchase train passes here) – South Korea’s second largest city. Depending on which train you take, the overall journey ride will require 2.25 to 2.50 hours so it’s definitely possible to do Busan as a day trip if you’re pressed for time, albeit a rushed one.
Many of Busan’s main tourist attractions are located not too far from Busan Station (where trains from Seoul stop). A few blocks south is 40 Steps, a 450 meter street lined with statues and other photo opps, including a 40-step stairway. The area has been refurbished recently and is supposed to reflect life in Korea in the 1950s and 1960s.
Tip: While many of Busan’s attractions are in the city center, the bulk of the good hotels are located farther out. This is especially true for seaside hotels. The good news is that there are left luggage lockers inside Busan Station for you to leave large bags while you go exploring in town.
From here, Jagalchi Market (nearest metro: Jagalchi Station) is a short hop away. The thought of eating freshly cut octopus with their tentacles still wriggling probably stands as one of the most iconic travel images concerning South Korea and that is exactly what this bustling seafood market is known for. Less adventurous eaters have other options as well. There’s a wide array of fish, crab and other shellfish available which can be chosen for cooking and served to be eaten at the dining tables upstairs.
Next up on one’s Busan checklist is Gamcheon Culture Village. Some call it Korea’s Santorini which I think is a bit of a stretch. It shares more similarities with the blue city of Jodhpur however as many of the houses are painted in similar shades of light blue. You can spend around 1 to 2 hours here depending on interest level. You’ll find shops and murals scattered around the village as well as cafes and museums. There is also an elevated view point here which is a popular spot for wedding shoots and panoramic photos of the village.
If you are in Busan only for a day trip, you can end here and return to Seoul. Otherwise, head to the below.
Day 6 – Busan Outskirts
If you are up for some hiking, check out Seokbulsa Temple located around Geumjeongsan, a mountain range not far from the city center. If you are coming as a group, it might make sense to take a taxi up and ask the driver to wait for you. Admission to the temple grounds is free of charge and visitors come here for the Buddha niches carved on the rocks. It is not considered a major temple in Korea but I have to say these carvings are among the most impressive I’ve seen in the country.
Tip: Within the general vicinity of Haeundae is Dalmaji-gil which has plenty of art galleries, cafes and restaurants. If you are in Busan during the weekend, check out the Dalmaji Art Flea Market from 2PM to 9PM. You can find handicrafts, teapots, bags and other creations by local artists.
After a morning hike, it’s time to cool off by the coast. Busan’s appeal to Koreans lies in its relatively milder weather and beaches. If you are in Busan during the summer months, you might find Haeundae Beach (nearest metro: Haeundae Station) relatively packed with weekenders from Seoul. While it’s definitely a popular tourist spot in Busan, I would not say Haeundae Beach is a must-see especially if you come from a tropical country. If you are in the area, I would instead suggest checking out the Busan SEA LIFE Aquarium near the beach or Busan Cinema Center (nearest metro: Centum City Station) with its metallic exterior and wave-like roof and mini-light show. It is an especially wonderful spectacle at night.
Another place to visit in the eastern part of the city is the Yonggungsa Temple. While Korea has no shortage of temples, what makes this place stand out is its scenic seaside location. The temple is literally perched on a rocky outcrop overlooking the coast which makes it one of Busan’s most photogenic spots. To get here, take the metro to Haeundae Station then transfer to bus 181.
Day 7 – Gyeongju
Another reason to visit Busan is that it serves as an excellent base from which to explore Gyeongju, the capital of the ancient kingdom of Silla and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The town has a plethora of historical sites that can easily take up one whole day of exploring. Highlights in Gyeongju include:
- Bulguksa Temple – Considered one of the main temples of Korea, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is considered a masterpiece of Buddhist Art. The Dabotap pagoda which is found in the temple grounds is featured in the 10 Won coin.
- Seokguram Grotto – Probably the closest Korea has to an “Indiana Jones” type of archeological site, visitors go inside a cavern to witness a large stone sculpture of the Buddha. Of all the places in Gyeongju, it is probably the Seokgruam Grotto that impressed me the most. It’s too bad photography is not allowed inside.
- Cheomseongdae Observatory – An ancient astronomical observatory built during the Silla period in the 7th century.
- Tumuli Park – A large area filled with mounds representing the tombs of the former kings of the Silla period. This was how Korea’s royalty was buried back in the day and you can find other burial mounds scattered all over Korea (including North Korea).
- Anapji Pond (Donggung Palace and Wolji Pond) – Particularly photogenic when visited in the evening while the structures are floodlit, today Anapji Pond exists in a garden-like state with cherry blossoms in the spring and pavilions that are immaculately reflected by the still waters from the pond.
To get to Gyeongju from Busan, you can either take the bus (around a 40 minutes ride) from the bus terminal or alternatively, you can book a guided day tour to Gyeongju that takes you through the tourist attractions listed above.
Getting to Seoul From Incheon International Airport
The Airport Express (AREX) train is my preferred way of getting from Incheon International Airport to the city as it’s relatively fast, inexpensive and there are frequent departures. Do note that if you are flying with Korean Air, you get a discount on train tickets so it’s wise to keep your boarding pass. Alternatively, you can also book online here to get a 25% discount for the AREX ticket to Seoul.
Another way to get to the city is by one of the airport buses which take almost 1.5 hours but the plus point is that it drops you off at varying locations around Seoul. If your hotel is near one of the airport bus stations, then it may make better sense to travel by bus.
Getting to Busan From Incheon International Airport
There used to be a direct KORAIL train from Incheon International Airport to Busan but it has been discontinued. If you can’t fly in/out of Busan to your home city directly, your best bet is to take the AREX to Seoul Station (~ 1 hour) then take a direct train from Seoul Station to Busan Station (~2.5 hours).
Getting to Busan From Seoul (City Area)
From Seoul to Busan (and vice versa), you have a couple of options including train, plane, bus or car rental. These are the pros and cons of each of these options:
- Best overall: South Korea’s KTX trains are best overall in getting between Seoul and Busan. The trains are fast, with the shortest ride being around 2 hour 15 mins. Economy class tickets cost about 59,800 Korean Won. Busan’s main station is in the city itself, not far from Jagalchi Market. You can purchase rail passes here.
- Fastest: Flying is theoretically the fastest. The plane ride lasts just less than an hour but you’ll need to factor in getting to the airport an hour before. Once you reach Busan, you’ll also need to factor in that Busan’s Gimhae Airport is in the outskirts and you’ll again need some form of transport to get to the city center.
- Cheapest: If you are on a budget and don’t mind being on the road for a couple more hours, you can take the bus. A bus ride between Seoul to Busan takes just over 4 hours and costs about 30,000 Korean Won. Buses will drop you off at Busan’s Central Bus Terminal which is at the northern edge of the city. There is a metro station here – Nopo – which can take you to the city center for a cheap price. However, if you plan on avoiding the metro due to heavy bags, etc; you’ll have to note that it’s quite a long cab ride to the city and you may end up paying an extra 20,000 Korean won or more for the taxi trip.
- Car rentals: Car rentals have gained in popularity in the pandemic era as some folks prefer to minimize interactions with strangers during their trip. South Korea is a relatively easy place for driving. Just make sure you have your international license. You can check out car rentals in Korea here.
Travel Tips for Seoul and Busan, South Korea
- Travel Insurance: In this age of uncertainty, it may be prudent to get travel insurance for your trip. If you reside in Singapore, check out this aggregator for the cheapest travel insurance. There is also a promotion running until 1st July that comes with 4x KrisFlyer miles per S$1, lucky draw for 125,000 miles and even free lounge access in the event of flight delay.
- Navigation: As mentioned previously, I can’t stress the help that Naver Maps provides in navigation and even bus schedules. Make sure to download the English version of this app.
- Changing Money: In Seoul, one of the best places to change money is this money changer in Myeongdong near the Chinese Embassy. The full address is: 26 Myeongdong 2-gil, Chungmuro 1(il)-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul, South Korea and they are open daily from 9AM to 9PM. Otherwise, you can also get pretty good rates from the branches of the big banks. In Busan, you can similarly exchange foreign currency at the big banks or in the area around Jagalchi Market.
Where to Stay in Seoul and Busan
Seoul – If you prefer to stay somewhere closer to the shopping district, you can check out the Stanford Hotel Myeongdong. The hotel is located just next to Euljiro-1 station. Rooms are clean and value-for-money. The property is also relatively new. For somewhere closer to sightseeing spots, I can’t recommend mid-priced Shilla Stay Gwanghwamun enough. The hotel is within walking distance to Gyeongbokgung and Bukchon Hanok Village. I absolutely loved being able to conveniently return to the hotel in the afternoons for some siesta time as I took breaks between sightseeing. Rooms are of modest size with understated chic decor, taking inspiration from the iconic The Shilla Hotel. You can also check the best prices for other Seoul hotels here.
Busan – The southern city is generally considered by locals as a resort destination and that is likewise apt for visitors in order to serve as a bit of contrast to the hustle and bustle of Seoul. While in Busan, I recommend the highly instagrammable Hilton Busan located in the city outskirts. The curve-y interiors reflect the seaside location of the hotel. Just a word to note – you might get too comfortable here that you wouldn’t want to leave the hotel anymore. For a cheaper option, you can check out Baymond Hotel located a short walk from Haeundae Beach. You can also check the best prices for other hotels in Busan here.
Walexy says
Great and very informative post.
I visited South Korea earlier this year around May 2019. But i only ventured through the capital city Seoul. However, I am more keen to explore the ancient side of the country during my next visit Busan and Gyeongju.
I am thinking of starting my visit in Busan, to Gyeongju and then back to Seoul for few days before flying out, but am confused if that’s possible because my port of entry will definitely be Incheon airport from Kuala Lumpur and so as my port of exit.
Is there anyway i can fly directly into Busan from Kuala Lumpur and make Seoul as my port exit? Or I have to arrive at Incheon airport go through the immigration and then make my way to Busan?
Bino says
Yes, if you are coming from KL, believe AirAsia flies to Busan direct.
Rose C says
This is an excellent itinerary! Thanks for sharing! am heading to Seoul in late June & will be spending 2 weeks there. I would like to include 2 days stay in both Busan & Sokcho & will likely travel to these two places on weekdays, to avoid any weekend crowd. Can you advise whether it is best to travel from Seoul-Sokcho-Busan-Seoul or visi versa? I noted travelling time between Busan & Sokcho by express bus is 6 hours?? Is it safe to purchase any bus tickets etc only when we fly into Seoul? Do you have any inputs or recommendation? Thank you so much!
Bino says
Thanks for your kind words.
Sorry haven’t been to Sokcho itself but regarding buses – I usually only buy on the spot.
Lisa says
Hi, I will be flying to Seoul with family for 15 days in late December thanks to Singapore-South Kores VTL. Would like to get your advise on the following:
1) Are we able to visit Jeju or is quarantine still required?
2) We were thinking of renting a car to visit some outskirts of Seoul. a) Is it possible to drive to Busan? b) Are there any areas which we should avoid by car? c) Is it easy to drive in South Korea & find parking too?
Hope to hear from you soon!
3) Any good recommendations for authentic Korean food?
Bino says
Hi, Thanks for dropping by. I am not sure about Jeju. It’s best to check with relevant authorities.
On driving to Busan – yes it’s possible but it will be a few hours’ drive.
Driving in South Korea is quite easy – but note they drive on the opposite side of the road as compared to SG.
For parking, most tourist attractions will have parking areas so no issues. If you are in the city center, might be a bit tougher but you can find those indoor parking lots or shopping mall parking spaces. Don’t park on the street unless it’s clearly marked for parking.
For food, you can check out the ones I listed in this article 🙂
Ingrid says
Hi! It is possible to drive from Seoul to Busan but it will take roughly 6 hours to get there, mostly because of the traffic, but also because the speed limit is set at 110 km/hour. As far as parking is concerned, most hotels and restaurants have their own parking, but within the city going by public transportation is much easier. Coming from Eastern Europe and having lived in Hong Kong for a while, and after 1 year of living in South Korea I would say driving is easy, just a bit crazy crowded, especially as you get closer to Seoul (no matter the direction).
Hope this helps!
Ranya Toba says
Hi B, thankyou so much for sharing your trip, such an amazing journey. reading your post makes me also want to visit there 🙂 hope i can visit there too for next vacation
Frank says
I spent a week in Busan and a week and Seoul and can just recommend it. I really enjoyed Busan a little more than Seoul. I love the sea and the coastline and beaches there are so beautiful.
sandra says
I came across your website. I found it most interesting. I wish to travel to South Korea in April. I want to visit Seoul, Busan, Gyeongju Pohang, Itaewon, and Jeju island. I wish to be brave and travel on my own. Female in her sixties but young at heart. are there lots of accommodation for the single traveller.
thanks
Ami says
Thank you, this is really great! I have a question about Busan – in your itinerary its just 2 nights which makes sense to me, but you suggested hotels that seem quite far from the station. Was it not stressful to get all your luggage to the hotel, then back to the sightseeing etc?
Bino says
That’s a great question! As Busan’s hotels are quite spread out, to save time, I would suggest leaving your luggage at the lockers inside Busan station while exploring the sights.
Tasneem says
Hi,
You itinerary is great. I wanted to ask why didn’t you add the DMZ tour to this. What are your thoughts
Bino says
Thanks for the idea. Just added my experience of the DMZ tour 🙂