Kaohsiung and Tainan, the main cities in the southern region of Taiwan, have been getting quite a bit of attention lately thanks to government efforts to promote the region to overseas tourists. The historic heart of the island has seen plenty of chic new hotels as well as redevelopment of existing tourist infrastructure in recent years.
For as little as a 1 hour 34 minute high speed train ride from Taipei, it makes sense to spend a couple of days in the southern cities. This is after all where Taiwan’s capital used to be. Those who make the effort to come here are ultimately rewarded with a different side to Taiwanese culture. People tend to speak Minnan (Hokkien) here compared to Mandarin and the tropical climate also means plenty of sunshine as compared to the usually dreary weather up north. If you are thinking of visiting Kaohsiung and Tainan and have no idea where to go, this suggested itinerary can hopefully help you.
Tip: If you are heading to Kaohsiung / Tainan by Taiwan’s high speed rail, check out this current promotion where tickets are cheaper for Non-Taiwanese passengers. Limited time only. Book here
If you are also heading up north, check out this Taipei itinerary
Table of Contents
Day 1 – Kaohsiung
The most common entry points to Kaohsiung are either via the Kaohsiung International Airport which is only 15 minutes from town or the Zuo Ying High Speed Rail Station. If you are arriving by the latter, you may be pleased to note that one of Kaohsiung’s top attractions – the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas – are situated close by. Chances are you’ll have your luggage in tow so it may be wise to check-in to your hotel first (check out my recommended lodging below).
Tip: If you are arriving via Kaohsiung International Airport, you may wish to purchase your 4G sim card beforehand in order to avoid potential queues and just collect once you arrive at the airport. Prices are also cheaper if you buy online. Check prices here.
Cijin / Qijin
After obtaining your bearings, start your day at Cijin (Qijin) District. Touted as one of the city’s tourism hotspots, the elongated island by Kaohsiung harbour is great for outdoor pursuits such as cycling. While here, you can check out the shops by the beach or head to Chihou Fort and Kaohsiung Lighthouse. Both were constructed by the British in the 19th century and marked the beginnings of the city as a port. Entrance is free for both attractions. There is also a modest old street here with shops and eateries. You can get here by taxi or by taking the ferry from Sinbin Pier.
Former British Consulate at Takow
Afterwards, head back to the mainland by ferry and make a short stop at the Former British Consulate at Takow (daily except Wed, 10AM to 7PM; opens at 9AM on Sat and Sun). It’s perched on top of a hill and is one of the oldest colonial mansions in Taiwan. Inside, visitors can find a museum as well as a cafe. The view over the city and the harbor is also fantastic.
Lunch at Duck Zhen
Take an early lunch at Duck Zhen (鴨肉珍) at 258 Wufu 4th Road in Yanzheng District which is known for its excellent duck rice. What makes the dish special is the sauce so make sure to order the duck rice which comes soaked in sauce rather than have the duck separately. Do note that the restaurant is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.
Pier 2 Art Center
After grabbing a bite, it’s just the right time to make the short stroll to Pier 2 Art Center (daily, 10AM to 6PM; until 8PM from Fri to Sun). The shops will start opening by this time. Taiwan has plenty of cultural and creative zones around the major cities and this is Kaohsiung’s answer to that. Inside, you’ll find plenty of small shops selling knick-knacks, the occasional art gallery as well as plenty of outdoor art works. If you are looking for a spot from where to take nice selfies, this place offers plenty of possibilities. Live Warehouse, a live music venue, provides a reason to return to Pier 2 Art Center at night. You can check their website for schedules of concerts and other live events here. If you are there on a weekend, there’s an interesting flea market just outside the warehouses selling everything from clothes, knick knacks, food and even pets.
Tip: The Pier 2 Tower offers a beautiful bird’s eye view of Kaohsiung’s skyline including their famous landmark, the now mostly abandoned 85 Sky Tower. Do note that opening times can be quite erratic. In the event that it is closed, your next best bet is from the Great Harbor Bridge.
For some Taiwanese specialties, the popular Sunny Hills – a brand most well-known for their pineapple cakes, has a store here. Visitors can stop by for a spot of tea or coffee paired with a pineapple cake, free of charge!
Be Dazzled at Formosa Boulevard MRT
Take the MRT and stop at the Formosa Boulevard Station to see the Dome of Light installation. This particular station frequently makes it to various lists of the most beautiful subway stations in the world. The stained glass fixture is counted as among the largest in the world. The dome comes in 4 sections representing the various elements: water, fire, earth and light.
Quaint, Old-School Taiwanese Dinner
The area near Formosa Boulevard Station is filled with trendy cafes, restaurants and tea rooms. One I would highly recommend for dinner is Tea for the Last Ten Miles (半九十茶屋) for its delightful, home cooked style set meals in an old-school, vintage tea room. The Grouper Set and the Braised Pork Set are must tries and come with 2 side dishes, a drink, soup and delightful mochi dessert!
Alternatively, Simmer House (小燉食室) is a Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurant in Kaohsiung specializing in beef-based and chicken soups. This cozy joint is another bastion of home style cooking, with simple ingredients and usage of less oil and salt.
Day 2 – Kaohsiung to Tainan
Weiwuying
Spend the morning wandering around Kaohsiung’s Weiwuying area, home to the architecturally notable National Kaohsiung Center for the Arts with its irregular, curvy facade. The concert hall, which is accessible only for those with a concert / performance ticket, is also worth a look. There is also a huge park ground surrounding the building which is popular for morning walks.
At the opposite side of the street is the Weiwu Mimi Village. It’s a neighborhood filled with murals. This is a functioning, inhabited area with the apartment facades filled with street art and an excellent place for those OOTD shots.
Dragon and Tiger Pagodas
Start the day by heading out to the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas (daily, 8AM to 6PM) in the city outskirts. Kaohsiung’s most recognizable attraction is best visited in the afternoon just when the sun is shining on the frontage.
To get here from Formosa Boulevard MRT Station, ride 4 stops along the red line and alight at Kaohsiung Arena Station. From there, take shuttle bus #301 which will drop you off right by the lotus pond where the pagodas are.
Fo Guang Shan Monastery
Before leaving Kaohsiung, you can also choose to do an optional excursion to the gigantic Fo Guang Shang Monastery in the outskirts of Kaohsiung. There is no shortage of temples in Taiwan but to be frank, this is one of the grandest modern temples I have ever seen. The most impressive portion of the temple is the grand pathway with pagodas on either side that leads to a giant Buddha statue. The reason why I call this an optional trip is because unless you have your own car or book a private tour, it may take you a bit of time to get there and back. The fastest way via public transport still takes 1.5 hours each way. The #8501 bus which departs from the Zuoying THSR station gets you there. Alternatively, it’s 40 minutes away by car from Kaohsiung’s city center. If you have your own car, it would make sense to head to Tainan after visiting Fo Guang Shan due to its location in the northern outskirts of Kaohsiung.
Should you decide not to do the trip to Fo Guang Shan, your morning should be spent traveling to Tainan after having your fill of Kaohsiung.
Getting From Kaohsiung to Tainan
There are a few ways to get from Kaohsiung to Tainan and the best way ultimately depends on where you are coming from. I weigh the pros and cons of each one:
- The fastest way is undoubtedly through the high speed rail. This is convenient if you are coming from Kaohsiung’s Zuoying area. Otherwise, do note that the HSR station in Tainan is actually 10km from the city. You will have to take a connecting local train or taxi (around TWD 550 taxi fare) when you arrive at Tainan HSR Station to get to the city center.
- Local trains also ply the Kaohsiung – Tainan route and can take anywhere from 27 minutes to slightly more than an hour. This is advantageous if you are coming from Kaohsiung’s city center and would like to get off at Tainan’s city center as well.
- By car, it’s about 50 minutes to slightly more than an hour from Kaohsiung to Tainan.
Taiwan’s 4th largest city and former capital, Tainan lies immediately north of Kaohsiung and because or urbanization, the two cities are almost contiguous to each other. Tainan is Taiwan’s cultural heart with plenty of age-old forts, temples, museums, historic alleys as well as good eats. As such, I recommend spending around 1.5 to 2 days in this city to fully explore what it has to offer.
Hayashi Department Store to Blueprint Cultural and Creative Park
It might be searing hot by this time in the afternoon, a perfect excuse to head over to the Hayashi Department Store. Much more than a shopping center, this commercial establishment dates back from the colonial Japanese era and has a distinct old world charm. From the tiled chessboard floors to a perceptible art deco interiors, this department store today caters to well-heeled travelers and you can find plenty of Tainan-made knick knacks inside as well as a restaurant on the topmost floor.
Tip: For a bird’s eye view of the city, head up to the open-air roof deck on Hayashi Department Store. You will also get a good vantage point of the surrounding buildings, including the neoclassical Tainan Land Bank opposite.
If you haven’t had enough of Taiwan’s “art districts,” you can end your day at Blueprint Cultural and Creative Park – Tainan’s very own. It’s a shopping hub of quaint indie stores, art galleries as well as plenty of street art. It’s worth a stroll even for just an hour and is at its liveliest at night.
Tainan’s Night Markets & Other Nightlife Options
End the day at one of Tainan’s lively night markets. The Garden Night Market is the biggest and is open on Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays while Dadong Night Market is open on Mondays, Tuesdays and Fridays.
Those looking for nightlife options will be pleased to note that one of the local watering holes, TCRC (located near the Matsu Temple) frequently makes it to the list of Asia’s top bars. It’s a bit difficult to get a seat from 10pm onwards as was my experience so do come earlier or at least leave your name and number (waiting time can be 2+ hours).
Day 3 – Tainan
Chihkan Tower
The main station in the city, Tainan Station, is conveniently located in the heart of town and is around 15 minutes walk to the tourist attractions. It makes sense to stay around the area. I stayed at the Shangri-la’s Far Eastern Plaza Hotel Tainan which offers a free shuttle bus to the sights nearby. You can start off at the Chihkan Tower (also known as Fort Provintia, Admission: 70 TWD). The site originates as a Dutch fort built in 1653. It was later destroyed by an earthquake and had to be rebuilt. This explains the Chinese facade. Inside, you’ll find a museum as well as a viewing deck which gives you an overview of the surrounding gardens.
Trying Almond Pudding – Tainan’s Specialty
A local specialty in Tainan is almond pudding, or more accurately – apricot kernel pudding. You can find them in many street shops where tourists congregate but a popular one is Imodo (Tues to Sun, 11AM to 7PM) which is located just beside Chihkan Tower. They have various flavors and toppings for their almond puddings including oat, red bean and cornflakes while the puddings are soft and silky in texture.
Koxinga Shrine
Afterwards, head out to the Confucius Temple which is a short cab ride or a 13 minute walk away from Chihkan Tower. The center of learning dates back to the 17th century. Travelers around East and Southeast Asia can note similarities in places like Hanoi with its Temple of Literature. From here, it’s also a short walk to the Koxinga Shrine a few blocks away. It’s a small family shrine erected to commemorate the ancestors of a noble man in the 17th century. It offers a good glimpse at the architecture of the time.
Anping Old Fort and Tree House
Spend the day exploring Tainan’s equally historic Anping District. While here, the Anping Old Fort is a must-see. It’s a Dutch fortress that has been turned into a museum. It also boasts of nice views of the city especially on clear days. Admission is TWD 70 (you can buy discounted tickets here). The dilapidated Anping Tree House nearby has become somewhat of an attraction due to social media. The site is filled with the overgrowth coming from the banyan tree and has plenty of “instagrammable” spots.
If you are having lunch in the area, I would recommend trying 周氏蝦捲 (#125 Anping Road) for its battered shrimp dish – akin to a Taiwanese style tempura.
While in Anping, also look out for the art installation – Big Fish’s Blessing – a whale figure designed by artist Yang Shiyi. It’s a popular hangout for locals during sunset (which also looks great from this spot).
Sicao Green Tunnel
One of the more unexpected activities in Tainan is the mangrove swamp tour which can be done on a boat. One ride on the Sicao Green Tunnel costs around TWD 200 per person. You’ll be on a raft along with approximately 14 other people with the ride lasting 30 minutes. Although the river is quite short, it’s highly scenic and in certain segments, you’ll see the mangroves from both sides joining together to form an arch and create a natural shelter from the sunlight. Do note that the location is a bit out of town so you’ll need your own transport to get here.
Chimei Museum
Another optional excursion you can do is visit the grandoise Chimei Museum (hours: 9:30AM to 5:30PM daily except Wednesdays) located in the city outskirts. Even if you have no interest in art exhibits, the exteriors are pretty impressive and is not dissimilar to the royal palaces in Europe with a large fountain and a bridge flanked by statues on both sides lining the entrance to the museum.
To get to Chimei Museum from downtown Tainan, take the train from Tainan Station and alight at Bao’an Station. From Bao’an Station, the museum is a 10-minute walk away.
Spend your last evening in Tainan strolling through atmospheric Shennong Street. Here, you’ll find quirky establishments such as a namesake bar where there are no standard operating hours, a cafe filled with dolls and vintage sofas brushing elbows with trendy izakaya restaurants. Add in the neighborhood shrine and temple and you’ve got yourself a perfect hangout for Taiwan’s hipsters.
How to Get From Kaohsiung Airport to Kaohsiung City Center and Tainan
From Kaohsiung Airport to Kaohsiung City Center – The Kaohsiung Airport MRT Station connects you to downtown via the red line. Alternatively, cab rides to town cost about TWD 350 and take 10 to 15 minutes or you can book a private car transfer.
From Kaohsiung Airport to Tainan – Allow a 45 minute to 1 hour ride. You can either hail a taxi when you arrive or book pre-arranged airport transfers.
Where to Stay in Kaohsiung and Tainan
In Tainan, I stayed in Shangri-la’s Far Eastern Plaza Hotel Tainan for its free shuttle bus to several tourist attractions and location close to Tainan Station. For families, this hotel offers family rooms that can easily fit 4 people. This is also among the most affordable Shangri-la properties in the world. Alternatively, Hotel Initial Tainan (旅幸福-台南館) is a relatively new property which is characterized by its wabi-sabi design. It’s also close to attractions such as Shennong Street.
In Kaohsiung, I stayed in the ultra-chic Silks Club Kaohsiung. I particularly loved its Japanese sensibilities and its designer artwork in the rooms and throughout the public areas. You can check out my full review here. For a more affordable option, you can also check out FX Inn Kaohsiung – Zhonghua Road which is very close to the night market and MRT station.
Hannah says
Awesome article!!!
As a Tainan citizen, I would like to recommend to have a walk along Guohua St and Zhengxing Street to grab some local delicacies. Better go there and share food with friends , you definitely want to try as more as you can.
Besides Tainan city center, Guanziling (關子嶺) is another must go tourist attraction. It is located in north Tainan and is famous for mud spring. The area is well developed for tourists with many hot spring hotels and restaurants. ( I recommend chicken dishes!)
Thank you for writing this article! It is a perfect travel guild for foreigners.
Carol says
Hi
I am planning to visit Taipei been there couple of times but haven’t gone back for like 9 years. I am only available in August to visit Taipei and wish to take the high speed train from Taipei to Kaoshiung. But understand it is typhoon in Taiwan so is it still good to go? Thanks.
Bino says
August is a hit or miss. Yes there are typhoons but not all the time. Also, ironically, August is actually the month with the highest number of sunshine hours in the year for Taipei.
ashapai says
hi
Loved raeding your Blog.Quick question can we stay in Tainan & do both Tainan & Khaoshiung.2d1N?Thnks
Bino says
It is certainly possible but too rushed. Do you have a private car?
Ong CS says
Very informative blog. Will be of great help in planning my trip to Kaoshiung & Tainan. Thanks!
Cathy says
Your blog is very informative. My friends and i would like to travel to Kaoshiung in end oct, is 6 day 5 nights to long to stay? Is there any other location where we can travel near Kaoshiung? If yes, please give some recommendation. Thanks
Bino says
Thanks for reading! With 5 nights you can do Kaohsiung, Tainan and maybe even Kenting.
Claire says
Planning to go kaoshiung on 26-30 sep.any place to recomend?
Evelyn Ng says
Hi, I’m flying to Kaohsiong from 27/12 till 1/1. Please advise how many places at each place and noted u reconmended for 6D5N can choose to go kaohsiong, Tainan and kending? Would greatly appreciate if you could advice us on how many nights at each places so that it’s not too hectic nor rush. Thanks in advance!
Bino says
Hello! You can look at doing the following:
2 nights – Kaohsiung
2 nights – Tainan
1 night – Kenting
tiffany says
Your article is very informative. We plan to go to Taiwan in the summer and need your help. Do you think the below itinerary is good?
– spend 2 nights at Fo Guang San
day 3 – Dragon & Tiger pagoda, Dome of Light, Lotus pond, “Love” art installation. Ruifeng night market
day 4 – Pier-2 Art center, Cijin Island. Luihe night market
day 5 – Fishermans’ Wharf
day 6 – train to Taipei
can you please suggest a place to stay. We want to use AirBnB but not sure of the area/district that is convenient for the above activities. Also, what is the best mode of transportation from Kaoshiung to Taipei.
thanks much in advance
7/6 – Train to Taipei