Mad About Sucre stands in an area that has seen constant change in terms of tenant mix. Over the years, the shophouses surrounding Bukit Pasoh have evolved from clan associations and offices into hip bars, Michelin-starred restaurants and exclusive members-only clubs. Mad About Sucre, which has stood in the section near where Teo Hong Road melds into Bukit Pasoh since 2014, is probably the oldest surviving modern F&B establishment in the area – quite a feat when one considers that only 60% of smaller restaurants in Singapore ever make it past 5 years.
I had first known about Mad About Sucre since their first year of operations back in 2014 but I’ve never had a meal here prior to this visit. I have tried their pastries before which I remembered to be very good and I had also heard stellar reviews about their savory dishes so I was quite excited to drop by for dinner upon receiving an invitation to dine here.
At the time of my visit, Mad About Sucre was rolling out its summer menu. Despite supply chain challenges throughout much of the world, the restaurant still imports many of their ingredients. This includes their caviar which they still source from Ukraine despite the war.
Entering for the first time since their refurbishment, the space looks very much to me like an arts space with projectors across three sides of the multi-colored dining hall showcasing the blooming of different types of flowers.
As a starter, the Grilled Ox Tongue (S$28) may be intimidating to some but it is actually quite a delightful dish. The tongue is lightly grilled to a slight crisp on the surface while remaining succulent on the inside, rendering a meaty texture that is not too dissimilar with other cuts of beef. The dish also comes with a refreshing chilled salad of young sweet onions drizzled with honey and lemon juice as a counterpoint to the lightly salted tongue.
New to the menu is the Kilppfisk Nordic Salted Cod Katafi with Caviar in Uni Sauce (S$12). This dish is inspired by Brazilian codfish balls using cured cod from Faroe Island and Norway. I loved the crunchiness brought by the katafi which went well with the naturally salty cured cod stuffing. I thought the flavor from this alone was enough but the team found the need to heighten it further by adding sea urchin sauce and topping with caviar from Ukraine. Not complaining!
A signature of the house, the Baked Cauliflower (S$34), came straight from the oven served with a side of fragrant brown butter stew enriched with miso, pickled cucumber, onions and assorted roasted nuts of pistachios, hazelnuts, almonds and sunflower seeds. Altogether, the sauces give the slightly charred cauliflower an unmistakable umami flavor – one that will even convince the kids to take their vegetables. While it was enjoyable, I also found the dish rather pricey.
Another new item is the Filet of Sea Barramundi (S$39), a French bouillabaisse classic reinterpreted with a grilled whole fillet of wild-caught barramundi on top of a bed of pearl couscous. The couscous is carefully placed underneath as if to mimic tiny fish eggs. It’s simmered in a bisque of wild Nordic shellfish and fragranced with preserved fennel. Nothing too complicated to the palate here. This is a good option if you prefer something light as your mains.
A meal at Mad About Sucre is perhaps not complete without a taste of its desserts. Their pastries for the summer season are gluten-free and showcase some delightful fruits such as the Good Arvo (S$15) which is carefully made to resemble an actual avocado. It features actual avocado flesh with pineapple and lemon at its core. This was heavenly and I enjoyed how it stayed true to the spirit of the prized fruit by using actual avocado flesh for the filling without making it too sweet.
For chocolate lovers, the Kakao (S$17) is not just gluten-free but is also egg-free and dairy-free. The absence of these usual ingredients don’t seem to hinder this dessert’s luster as the chocolate was as rich and thick as what you’d expect from traditional chocolatiers. There’s a calamansi layer inside for an added zest and a bit of bourbon whisky for a juxtaposition.
Overall, I enjoyed the food at Mad About Sucre. Dishes were fresh, tasty, unprocessed and most important of all, they did not have to resort to over-the-top methods to bring about their culinary vision. Special mention needs to be made for their desserts. I am not really a cake person but I really enjoyed both desserts I had that I am already thinking about a return for takeaways. If I have any gripe about the restaurant at all, it would probably be on the price which is a tad high.
Mad About Sucre
27 Teo Hong Road
Monday to Saturday, 12:30PM to 5PM, 6:30PM to 10PM
Sunday, 12:30PM to 5PM
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