Kun (坤) Restaurant – The Idea of a Sichuan Omakase May Seem Novel But it Works

I did not know what to make of Kun when I first heard that this Sichuan omakase opened in Amoy Street in Singapore. This regional variety of Chinese cuisine is not by any means new here but its manifestations abound mostly in mala venues that the thought of it being offered as an omakase – a domain I typically relegate to Japanese cooking – seemed unusual at first. 

Indeed, Kun’s dining space does make it seem Japanese at first glance. Entering the Amoy street shophouse that accommodates it, I was transported into a sense of zen. The wooden sliding doors, counter seating with the chef preparing dishes in front of diners and smartly-dressed staff members waiting on us all serve to remind that this is very much an omakase venue. 

Appetizer

We started with an array of appetizers – collectively a Sichuan pickled specialty also known as diving pickles. Chef recommended starting from the left, beginning with the pickled Chinese kale with homemade sour and spicy dressing, followed by pickled snow pear with red wine and roselle dressing and finishing off with pickled cherry belle radish with homemade savory and spicy dressing. This particular sequence also reflected the shifting levels of spiciness between the 3 – with the cherry belle radish possessing the most spice of the trio.

Mushroom Consomme with Fish Maw and Morel Mushroom

From a slightly fiery start, we cooled off with the mushroom consommé with fish maw and morel mushroom. The soup was prepared by steaming (not boiling!), a technique not commonly seen in soup preparation. The blend of mushrooms was simmered with old hen, pork knuckles, and tenderloin for four hours to infuse the soup with a deeper and richer flavor. The addition of fish maw and morel mushroom also served to add layers of texture and flavor that captured the essence of the broth.

Fresh Hokkigai Surf Clam with Celtuce and Red Oil Dressing

This dish is defined by its red oil dressing, a fusion of homemade soy sauce, red oil and pepper oil incorporating hints of tanginess, sweetness, freshness, saltiness, and a subtle touch of spiciness. The red oil dressing is commonly found in Sichuan cuisine but I must admit this is the first time I’ve seen it on surf clams. 

Stir-Fry Black Tiger Prawn with French Bean and Seven-Star Pepper 

This was the first dish where the numbing flavor started to become prominent. The prawn was noticeably crunchy and almost had a “popcorn” quality to it, while the french bean served to enhance the textures of the dish. Chef also briefed us about the chili that came on the side and mentioned that it’s one of the spiciest varieties.  

Crispy Australia Angus Short Ribs with Black Vinegar Glaze 

The presentation here was akin to a sausage dish with a most curious sweet and sour taste that’s reminiscent of the fermented sausages of Northern Thailand. The addition of Chinese sour plums brought a distinctive flavor to the black vinegar glaze. Overall, I’d consider it one of the highlights of the evening. 

Poached New Zealand Beef Tongue with Homemade Dressing and Peppercorns

The tongue came in strips and had a meaty quality that one would be forgiven to think this is a mere sliced beef kind of dish. The tongue was tender and rather springy. The key element of this course is the dressing it’s served with – a mix of canola oil, onions, carrots and peppercorn. It’s quite tasty that I could not help but spread the sauce all over the meat. 

Cold Rice Noodles

This is another familiar dish, essentially cold rice noodle with a piquant flavor. I loved how soft the noodles were that the strands essentially collapsed when I tried to raise them up with chopsticks.

Dry Braised Sea Cucumber 

Sea cucumber served as quite an apt star for the next dish as this particular choice of seafood usually does well in absorbing flavors that emanate from sauces, in this case the fermented essence of 20-year old bean paste. 

Steamed Chinese Dumplings with Périgord Truffle Stuffing and Homemade Dressing

This was perhaps the most familiar dish to me – essentially red oil dumplings but a lux-ed up version with the filling made from duroc pork from Spain and Perigord truffle from France. 

Preserved Vegetable Fried Rice with Abalone and Diced Morel Mushroom

The main ingredient of the dish is Chinese Sprouts, which we source from Yibin. These sprouts add subtle sweetness and a crunchy texture, providing balance to the richness of the abalone and the umami of the morel mushrooms. I normally have little tummy space for the carbohydrate dish when it is served towards the end of the meal but I have to say I enjoyed this one. 

Bird’s Nest with Peach Gum

An all too apt refreshment after the spicy dishes that preceded it, the peach gum dessert was just what I needed with its lung-nourishing and wellness properties. The bird’s nest is infused with snow drop jasmine for a more floral kick.

Boiled Glutinous Rice Balls with Fermented Rice Wine

A hot dessert ended our meal which also served as a counterpoint to the previous cold dessert. The glutinous rice balls are filled with black sesame and crushed peanuts, enveloped in a tender outer layer made from glutinous rice. It’s the soup however, which was the unique thing here. It consisted of fermented rice wine, aged for over 3 months and infused with osmanthus. Invented by Chef Lai Yuanxin in 1894, this dish quickly became popular in Sichuan. Renowned for their smooth, white appearance, these balls are encased in a chewy, glutinous skin.

Overall, Kun took me by (pleasant) surprise. Even for someone like me who is not necessarily a fan of all things mala, I found the flavors rather varied. Although Sichuan cuisine is mostly known for its heaty properties, it’s not just about the spice here. I found that the varying levels of sour and sweet also played as big a role in the cohesiveness of the menu. There was not a single dish that I did not like which says a lot about my experience here. 

Kun
74 Amoy Street
Singapore 069893

+65 69694256