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The Real Iran Pt4: Esfahan – Half the World in a City

November 24, 2011 by Bino 15 Comments

reflections at the sheikh lotfollah mosque

After two days of wandering aimlessly in maze-like streets and surveying what looked like Aladdin’s Agrabah, it was time to make a move again. I left Yazd with both sadness and excitement. I really liked the city, and told myself that I’d return one day. But at the same time, I was looking forward to our next city, which everyone we met along the way had been raving about. There was this rhyme that a local had taught me, it was a Persian adage that goes: Esfahan Nesf e Jahan which means “Esfahan IS half the world.” To the unfamiliar, this may seem like a cheeky thing to say. But I later realized Esfahan is one of those places where you really have to be there to see it. Home to awe-inspiring mosques, palaces, gardens, churches and bridges, Esfahan is considered the masterpiece of Persia and widely considered to be – you better believe it – one of the world’s finest cities.

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Filed Under: Iran Tagged With: architecture, art, asia, colors, esfahan, iran, isfahan, islam, middle east, mosque, muslim, persia, photography, tourism, travel

The Real Iran Pt3: Yazd – An Oasis in the Desert

November 20, 2011 by Bino 13 Comments

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-VBgDGuKQM]

After spending two nights in Shiraz and taking that daytrip to Persepolis and Nagsh e Rostam, it was finally time to move on to our next city – Yazd. Sitting in the middle of the desert, this central Iranian city is known for its unique clay architecture which gives it a very storybook feel. I wouldn’t be surprised if the story Aladdin was set here. A six-hour bus ride away, I had a rough idea of how to get there from Shiraz but Antoine, a Frenchman we met during the Persepolis trip, told us how it’s common practice to ask the hotel to book bus tickets. This was great news, and saved us the hassle of having to buy them ourselves at the bus terminal.

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Filed Under: Iran Tagged With: asia, desert, hotel, iran, middle east, persia, photography, tour, tourism, travel, yazd

The Real Iran Pt2: The Biblical City of Persepolis

November 19, 2011 by Bino 2 Comments

Many countries have that one landmark which serves as the national symbol as well as its #1 tourist draw. As Angkor Wat is to Cambodia, Machu Picchu to Peru and Great Wall to China, in Iran that place is Persepolis. Over 2,500 years old, this former capital of the Persian Empire is emblematic of the strong Pre-Islamic heritage which this nation proudly carries. Way before associations with the “axis of evil” came about, it is Persepolis which people in the past two millennia have come to associate with Persia.

the gate of all nations

Some forty years ago when Iran was still under a secular government, a grand celebration with a lot of pomp and pageantry was held in Persepolis by the then Shah Mohammad Reza Pahlavi to commemorate 2,500 years of Persian Civilization. The guest list included the who’s who in global politics at that time, and also comprised our then First Lady Imelda Marcos who represented the Philippines for the event.

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Filed Under: Iran Tagged With: ancient, bible, history, iran, middle east, persepolis, persia, photography, tour, tourism, travel

The Real Iran Pt1: Touchdown Shiraz – But No Wine?

November 15, 2011 by Bino 8 Comments

naranjestan garden

I had been looking forward to this trip since 2007 when my interest in traveling to Iran started. I had just traveled to Turkey earlier that year, and after finding it to be one of my best travel experiences, I vowed to see more of the Middle East next time. However, it did not materialize until four years later – I had constantly been putting it off in favor of nearer destinations. But this year, with all the uncertainty and the revival of the nuclear programme issue in recent months, I decided it was now or never. It had been pending in my travel list for far too long.

With only a limited number of days in Iran, I decided to depart from the usual practice that most travelers have of arriving and departing through Tehran. Fortunately, Qatar Airways started flying to Shiraz recently, which was the southernmost city in our trip so we could just make our way northwards and skip a potentially hazardous domestic flight. The actual flight to Shiraz from Doha turned out to be more like a short hop over the Persian Gulf, and before I knew it, I was in the waiting area of the airport terminal negotiating for the fare with the cab drivers. Despite all the horror stories I heard with the immigration procedures, I got my visa in a few minutes after presenting my reference code. Then, I was off to Shiraz!

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Filed Under: Iran Tagged With: iran, islam, persia, photography, religion, shiraz, tourism, travel

The Real Iran Prologue: Why Go to Iran?

November 13, 2011 by Bino 10 Comments

If I were to base my travel decisions solely on the opinions of the people around me, I probably would not have gone to Iran. To say this country has a bad reputation is a gross understatement – it probably ranks near the bottom among countries in terms of public perception. Of course, it does not help that its government once voiced its wish to have “Israel wiped off the map” but then again, as in most countries, the overwhelming majority of the citizenry does not share the same sentiments as with its leaders. A country like Iran deserves more than just a second look. What if instead of Iran, we call it by its former name, Persia? Would thoughts of nuclear programmes and hard-line Islam suddenly switch to dreams of an ancient civilization, ornate palaces and a forward-looking populace? Indeed, this country’s current standing is perhaps a juxtaposition of these two worlds. To dismiss Iran merely due to the negative perception would mean foregoing the opportunity to (1) meet the friendliest and warmest people on earth, (2) see some amazing ancient ruins and stunning architectural works, (3) try some great and varied activities such as skiing, cycling, etc at a fraction of the cost and (4) perhaps have one of the most fulfilling travel experiences ever.

if you though iran was a big bomb site, you're wrong... that's iraq

During the days leading to my departure, almost everyone who learned about my trip thought that I was mad or some kind of a weirdo. I had only told a handful of people about my trip but this seemed to have spread all over, as I suppose there is a tendency for people to spread around rumors that someone had gone cuckoo. My friends, family and colleagues were genuinely concerned for my safety. “Please come back in one piece” was something I heard often, as if I was going to a war zone. The only people who didn’t think so were the ones who had been to Iran previously, and they were the ones who steadfastly vouched for the safety over there. These people had fondly shared with me memories of their trip to Iran and their wish to go back sometime in the future. Many of those who have been there actually rank Iran as one of their favorite countries, travel-wise.

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Filed Under: Iran Tagged With: asia, experience, iran, middle east, tour, tours, travel

Ha-Ha-Ha Long Bay

August 31, 2011 by Bino 10 Comments

The sole reason why we decided to have a 3-day Hanoi trip instead of making it a Saturday-Sunday affair was because of Ha Long Bay. The name has been entrenched so strongly in many a travelers’ minds that it’s become one of the must-visit places in Southeast Asia. With a name that literally means “Descending Dragon’s Bay,” how could one possibly pass this up?

While limestone karst formations are not peculiar in the region (Guilin in China; Krabi in Thailand and Coron in the Philippines all come to mind), what separates Ha Long Bay from the rest are the sheer number of these rising up from the sea – there’s over 3,000 of them! It makes for a very fine view, especially during sunset where the scenery can appear like a painting baked by the golden colors complementing the limestone silhouettes.

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Filed Under: Vietnam Tagged With: backpacking, boat, food, ha long bay, halong bay, photo, photography, sea, sky, Southeast Asia, tour, travel, trip, vietnam, water

Exploring the Streets of Hanoi, Pt2

August 28, 2011 by Bino Leave a Comment

ho chi minh mausoleum

On our last day in Hanoi, we again ventured to see what the city has to offer – this time focusing on the western portion. As it was a sunny day (a rarity by Hanoi’s standards as it is one very cloudy city), we started early in the morning and made our way to Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum. Most people make the mistake of assuming that this mausoleum, by virtue of its name, is located in Ho Chi Minh City. But actually, it is in Hanoi. The building faces Ba Dinh Square, which is one of the few places one gets to see such a wide open space right at the heart of the city. Compared to the Old Quarter, this part of the city featured large squares and wide boulevards that were more in keeping with modern communist capitals. From the outside, the memorial reminds me of the Anitkabir in Ankara, Turkey. It was closed when we visited so there was no chance to go in. Not that we wanted to, since all one gets to see inside is Ho Chi Minh’s embalmed corpse.

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Filed Under: Vietnam Tagged With: asia, hanoi, ho chi minh, quan an ngon, temple of literature, travel, vietnam

Exploring the Streets of Hanoi, Pt1

August 27, 2011 by Bino 2 Comments

Hanoi is one of those cities that I kept at the back of my mind for the longest time, like a page bookmarked for future reading. I had initially “bookmarked” it in 2007 when I first visited Vietnam but only had the time for Ho Chi Minh City. I was reminded about it in 2009 when a colleague from New Zealand was raving to me how great his weekend break in Hanoi was. But it was only last week that I finally got to visit this thousand year old city during a self-imposed 3-day long weekend.

emerald waters of Hoan Kiem Lake / Lake of the Returned Sword

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Filed Under: Vietnam Tagged With: asia, french quarter, hanoi, hoan kiem, lake, old quarter, travel, vietnam

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Hi, I'm Bino, a part-time wanderer and a travel blogger. In this site, I share with you my top travel itineraries. Along the way, I also provide travel guides and tips, recommendations on awesome food to try and impressive hotels to stay! Read More…

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