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Exploring Alor Setar in Kedah, Malaysia

July 23, 2019 by Bino 9 Comments

https://iwandered.net/alor-setar-in-kedah-malaysia/

My latest Malaysian trip took me to the state of Kedah, a place that many people don’t realize they have visited. If you have been to the resort island of Langkawi then yes, you would have been to this state in the northern part of Peninsular Malaysia. In my case, my visit to Kedah led me not to the emerald isles of Langkawi but to the city of Alor Setar, the royal and administrative capital of the state, for some sightseeing.

Table of Contents

  • How to Go to Alor Setar?
  • Menara Alor Setar
  • Masjid Zahir
  • Balai Nobat
  • Kedah Royal Museum
  • State Art Gallery of Kedah
  • Mahatir Mohamad Birthplace
  • Masjid Albukhary
  • Wat Nikrodharam
  • Where to Stay

How to Go to Alor Setar?

Alor Setar is a humble city with a pretty compact center. It has its own airport, the Sultan Abdul Halim Airport, which handles flights to Kuala Lumpur and Medan in Sumatra. As I was coming from Singapore, I opted instead to fly to the nearest airport with direct flights to Singapore and that’s in Penang. From there, I took a 2 hour bus ride which took me to Alor Setar via Butterworth.

Though pretty much off the tourist radar (it’s even more low-key than Kota Bharu and Kuala Terengganu which I featured previously), there are quite a number of tourist attractions in Alor Setar to keep travelers busy. Personally, I was amazed by the stunning Moorish architecture scattered all around town as well as the mixture of cultures stemming from the city’s location. As Alor Setar is near the border with Thailand, I could glimpse elements of Thai culture in the local cuisine as well as in places of worship.

Menara Alor Setar

menara alor setar

menara alor setar

view from menara alor setar

sweeping city views from menara alor setar

I started my day at Alor Setar at the city’s most prominent landmark – the eponymous Menara Alor Setar (open 9AM to midnight, daily). At 165.5 meters, it is the tallest structure in the city and can be seen from practically all corners of the city center. I paid the admission fee of 18 Ringgit (it’s 12 Ringgit for children) to take the elevator up to the viewing deck where I got to see sweeping panoramic vistas of the town. Though looking particularly dense from the ground, I was pleasantly surprised to see how little there was in the way between the concrete jungles of downtown and the paddy fields that surround it. Of all the Malaysian state capitals that I had visited up to that point, Alor Setar still had a small town vibe that the others lacked.

Masjid Zahir

masjid zahir

masjid zahir

After making my way back to the ground, I headed south towards the majestic Masjid Zahir, one of Malaysia’s most well-known mosques. I could not go in at the time but it was nonetheless a sight to see. As the mosque was built in 1912, it was not particularly large and the design’s a departure from the modern, steel and glass concepts that has proliferated around the country. Those who have visited Banda Aceh and Medan in neighboring Sumatra may notice similarities with those cities’ respective main mosques especially when it comes to the color scheme and Maghreb/Andalucian influence.

Balai Nobat

balai nobat

balai nobat

A curiosity in the city center is the Balai Nobat. An elegant yellow tower that seems to stand randomly in downtown Alor Setar, the building houses the musical instruments of the royal orchestra. You can’t really see the instruments inside but the tower is definitely worth a look even from outside. Though not particularly huge, the striking yellow color of the tower and its octagonal shape makes this what is perhaps Alor Setar’s most beguiling attraction.

Kedah Royal Museum

kedah royal museum

kedah royal museum

 I also spotted a couple of museums such as the Kedah Royal Museum (free of charge, open 9AM to 5PM daily except for Fridays, 9AM to 12:30PM; 2:30PM to 5PM on Fridays). Of the buildings in the center of town, this particular museum has less of a colonial feel and more of a Moorish vibe as it dates back from 1856 as sultan’s royal palace.

State Art Gallery of Kedah

balai seni negeri

balai seni negeri

The Balai Seni Negeri (admission free, open 9AM to 5PM daily except for Fridays, 9AM to 12:30PM; 2:30PM to 5PM on Fridays) is the State Art Gallery of Kedah. The grand building housing it dates back from 1912 and was originally used as a high court. Today, the venue is home to antiques and several paintings and photographs.

Mahatir Mohamad Birthplace

modest birthplace of mahatir mohamad

modest birthplace of mahatir mohamad

I then headed down to Pekan Rabu, a shopping complex filled with traditional handicrafts and local food only to find it undergoing renovation. Fortunately, there was a taxi stand nearby and I hailed one to take me to the birthplace of Mahatir Mohamad (closed Mondays, 10AM to 5PM other days except Fridays, 10AM to 12PM, 2PM to 5PM on Fridays) at the other side of the Sungai Kedah river, an otherwise modest bungalow filled with mementos and old photographs from when Malaysia’s former prime minister grew up in Alor Setar. The house is more than 1km away from the city center. It’s not particularly far but given the city’s punishing heat, it may be worthwhile to hire a taxi. There are plenty waiting by the civic area.

Masjid Albukhary

masjid albukhary

masjid albukhary

masjid albukhary interiors in alor setar

persian style dome of masjid albukhary

Before calling it a day, I had 2 more places to visit. Although not listed in any travel guides, I made it a point to go to Masjid Albukhary in Jalan Langgar in the city outskirts. Compared to Masjid Zahir, the former’s a modern place of worship. I found it particularly interesting as it was built in the Persian style, similar to the fascinating structures I encountered during my trip to Uzbekistan some years back.

Wat Nikrodharam

wat nikrodharam

For contrast, I also stopped briefly at Wat Nikrodharam, a Thai temple not too far from the city center before crossing out yet again another Malaysian state from my bucket list. Given the proximity of Alor Setar from the Thai border, one can find a number of Thai influences here including some Thai temples (this is the largest one) as well as Thai influences in the cuisine. The char kway teow (fried noodles) here are more resemblant of pad thai!

Where to Stay

During my trip to Alor Setar, I stayed at TH Hotel & Convention Centre Alor Setar which is one of the few decent and newer 4-star digs in the city. Prices for the rooms and especially the food are very affordable given that most other options in Alor Setar are poorly maintained hotels in the downtown. You can also compare for the best prices for hotels in Alor Setar HERE.

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Bino

Let me know your thoughts by leaving a comment below. Alternatively, you can also email me at b i n o (at) iwandered.net. You can follow I Wander on Facebook, Telegram, or Instagram. Also, if you liked this article, please feel free to SHARE or RETWEET

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Filed Under: Malaysia Tagged With: alor setar travel guide, kedah, things to do in alor setar, tourist attractions

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Comments

  1. Danial says

    September 28, 2015 at 3:54 pm

    Great post especially for day trippers in Alor Setar. One reason I like this city is that although it is the state capital of Kedah, it still has that laid-back rural vibe.

    You can really feel the slower pace of life and it is not too far from any paddy field!

    Reply
    • Bino says

      October 1, 2015 at 11:57 am

      Indeed! The proximity to the paddy fields is even more apparent when looking out at the city from Menara Alor Setar

      Reply
  2. Jeff says

    October 1, 2015 at 10:21 am

    It’s really fascinating when styles from different cultures/countries combine. Just like what you’ve seen in Alor Setar. Hopefully, I can visit this mosques and towers and be able to capture some awesome shots, just like what you did. Awesome post!

    Reply
  3. Juliana says

    July 14, 2017 at 11:54 am

    I’m reading your blog while visiting these attractions in Alor Setar currently.Thanks for knowledges.

    Reply
    • Bino says

      July 14, 2017 at 4:34 pm

      Hope they’re helpful!

      Reply
  4. Shirley says

    July 30, 2018 at 1:48 pm

    hello Bino
    to sightsee the above spots – how did you move around?
    Im thinking of getting a taxi, negotiate for an hourly rate – do you have any idea of prices? Or taxi call center numbers?

    Reply
    • Bino says

      July 30, 2018 at 3:41 pm

      It’s easy to hail a cab there. I got one from the taxi stand near the mosque. You can just negotiate with them for the price.

      Reply
  5. Tony says

    July 25, 2019 at 12:30 pm

    Thanks for the great pictures Bino, looks like a really interesting small city that is also easy to get around. Just wondering if you would happen to know if there are any hiking options within easy striking distance of the city?

    Reply
  6. azmil syahmi says

    May 30, 2020 at 8:33 pm

    Great post. There’s so much to see in Alor Setar. Not much was highlighted when we were there. Some 3 to 4 years ago. So we only visited the Paddy Museum, Alor Setar Tower and the National Science Center there. I was sad that I couldn’t visit the birthplace of Mahathir. It was under renovation.

    Reply

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